This is actually a tale of two trips - a lovely ride through some of the most picturesque country in the world and one that most definitely was not. I had been on the Milan to Zurich route the only other time I was in Milan back in the 1980s on a contract for SRI.  The second half of our journey, overnight train from Zurich to Zagreb, was an unknown but we had hopes for it.

In which our weary travelers commiserate with the well-off dead while walking to an amazing open-air market.